Author Archive

The Temagami area covers about 12,000 square kilometers from Elk Lake in the north, where the Montreal River broadens on its way south, to River Valley, west of North Bay at the confluence of the Sturgeon and Temagami Rivers, and from Lake Timiskaming and the Ottawa River in the east, westward to the Sturgeon River. In the middle sits Lake Temagami. Lake Temagami was once described as looking like a flower, with Bear Island as its center. The six petals of this lake cover 20,210 hectares, and there are 1,259 islands, the largest being Temagami Island, followed by Bear Island. Estimates of the shoreline length vary from 512 to 616 kilometers. The total island shoreline is perhaps another 340 kilometers. Temagami country is a rocky upland plain with a shallow soil covering. This is a border zone between the great boreal forest system to the north and the Great Lakes-St. Lawrence forest system to the south. Trees are a mix of northern evergreens and hardwoods. White and red pines tower on rocky shores and ridges while jack pine flourishes on burned-over areas. White and black spruce and balsam fir are plentiful. Northern hardwoods such as aspen and white birch may be found adjacent to southern hardwoods like yellow birch and maple on more protected sites. There are wetland communities—scrublands, marshes, floating bogs and black spruce bogs. (more…)

Bannock is an old English word of Celtic origin and may have been the first word used to describe bread. Many native cultures of North America have also incorporated bannock, or frybread as it is also called, into their cuisine.

Bannock is a yeast-less bread that we cook every night in our convection ovens. It is a very simple recipe that uses baking soda and baking powder as leavening agents. Although we eat it every day, this trail staple can easily be jazzed up so that lunch doesn’t get boring. People have added cheese, garlic and onions; tomato soup mix and basil; chocolate chips; and cinnamon and brown sugar. It’s been made into dumplings and cooked in soup, as well as fried and covered in cinnamon and brown sugar to make Beaver Tails. Below is the recipe for bannock (more…)

By Kate Kerrick

Although we are on islands, far from convenient stores and large shopping centers, we still receive a great deal of fresh food and so our meals are always extremely delicious, varied, and well balanced. It is all made from scratch – no mixes, no pre-made frozen meals. Some of my favorites are the ginger and carrot soup, our fresh bread (from the wood fired oven), and the banana and chocolate chip muffins. It makes it so much more wonderful to come back from trail knowing that there is a home-cooked feast waiting for you. (more…)

By: Kate Kerrick

We are very lucky here at Northwaters and Langskib (NWL) to have three great chefs in our community. Robin Young works at our Northwaters Basecamp while Lynne Brach and Elizabeth (or 2D, as we call her) work at our Langskib Island basecamp.

Our Northwaters cook, Robin Young, grew up in Toronto. Her father inspired in her an appreciation for good, fresh, seasonal food by planting a garden for her when she was little. (more…)

By: Deshka Foster, NWL Staff

Upon returning home from leading trips at Northwaters a few summers ago, instead of commencing my junior year of college, I packed my backpack and boarded a plane for Nairobi. I had decided to take a leave of absence from Stanford University and volunteer for a small, not-for-profit organization in northern Tanzania. The organization is called Students for International Change and offers HIV/AIDs education, awareness campaigns and testing in rural communities.

The previous winter when in the midst of researching possible abroad opportunities, I had come across the following quotation in a book of poetry:

“I live my life in widening circles that reach out across the world.

I may not ever complete the last one, but I give myself to it”.

–Rainer Maria Rilke

I had already checked out the University study-abroad programs, but was not interested because I did not want to do “America in Paris” or “America in Santiago”; to take Stanford classes with a bunch of Stanford kids in a different country. I was rather looking for a meaningful experience that was separate from the American college scene to which I had become accustomed. Rilke’s words speak to this desire, reflecting on a human inclination to explore the world through a service project committed to making it a better place for those who are less fortunate. The effort to create positive change in the world and the experience of leaving behind what is familiar and comfortable, give rise to an opportunity for immense growth and learning.

I chose to do HIV/AIDS work because for as long as I can remember I have known that I wanted to become a doctor and work in international health. This inspiration stems from my belief that medicine is the field through which I will be able to offer the most to the world; caring for struggling abroad communities that lack the resources and expertise for proper healthcare. However, upon coming to Stanford, I quickly discovered that the actual process of becoming a doctor is more selfish than this philanthropic aspiration. I craved an experience that would allow me to get back in touch with my initial inspiration and to experience first hand the things that I had been writing college papers about. I chose to volunteer for Students for International Change because I was impressed by this organization’s commitment to excellence, with a combined focus on prevention and treatment and a very progressive approach to educating rural communities about HIV/AIDS. Excellence is a term that is frequently employed in the Northwaters/Langskib vocabulary. It speaks about the importance of doing things that you find meaningful and especially about caring about the way you do the things that you do.

For the next four months, I lived as a rural Tanzanian and taught about HIV and AIDS at primary and secondary schools, medical clinics and to communities, basically to everyone and anyone who was willing to listen. It was one of the most powerful experiences in my life: eye-widening, saddening, frustrating at times and incredibly rewarding at others. The first village I lived in was about halfway up Mount Meru. We lived in a little cement shack with a family of 11 give or take a few random neighbors, cows, stray dogs, goats and chickens. The eldest brother moved out of his bed in order to let another volunteer and I sleep there and was sleeping in the family’s “duka”, a small shop on the roadside that sells soap, matches, chai and Tanzanian pancakes. Although I had studied a bit of Swahili, it turned out that this family only spoke the local dialect, KiMaasai, making communication a serious challenge.

Every morning we were awakened around six by the eldest sisters, as they hauled buckets of water from the stream in a canyon below. Then we walked about an hour down the dusty dirt road (there are only two paved roads in the whole country of Tanzania) to a primary school. Many of the schools buildings were missing doors and windows and some children could only attend one or two days of class a week depending on their family’s needs. Some days there would be a governmental testing, church events for the community or simply students would not show up, but we would stay there for most of the day and teach whenever we could.

We begin our instruction with basic biology and immunology, then the progression of HIV in the human body, transmission and prevention and finally teach about HIV testing and how to live with and care for people who are HIV+. After five weeks of teaching in the school and community, our students possess accurate knowledge about HIV; small group of them have been trained to be peer-educators and continue educating at the school when we are gone; many of the dukas in the village have started to sell condoms and the people we meet along the road know our names and have taught us to great them in KiMaasai. Although HIV is a complicated health crisis and offering awareness campaigns in one ward of villages at a time will hardly immediately eliminate HIV from sub-Saharan Africa, I believe that our efforts are effective and genuinely excellent. I am incredibly grateful for all of the support I got for this incredible opportunity and will be returning to Tanzania as a volunteer coordinator for Students for International Change this coming summer.

If you have any questions, comments or would like information about Students for International Change, check out our website: www.sichange.org.

By Jodi Browning, NWL Staff

I’m coming to the end of the portage trail. I’ve been catching glimpses of the lake for about 200 meters—it appears as a glimmer through the trees. It’s a brief, unattainable vision. In my exhaustion, I am considering plowing through the trees ‘off trail’ to access the water, but I still hear the falls and rapids and know that it’s too soon. The ground is slippery from yesterday’s downpour and the woods are thick with deadfall. I’m better off on the trail. Moving forward for what seems like ages, I am mesmerized as I watch my feet and my shadow against the ferns. The branches and leaves reach out to me. I glance up from under the tip of my canoe. I can see a distinct opening—the edge of the trees, open water! At last the falls are behind me.

I pound through the last stretch of the trail. With the end in sight, my body is rebelling in anticipation. It wants this portage to be over now, not in 50 meters. I keep pushing forward. As trip leader, I started out on the portage first, but I’m only about two minutes ahead of the participant behind me; the rest of the group is close behind him. He had caught up with me on a break about 15 minutes earlier. We chatted briefly (and breathlessly) about negotiating the stretch of knee-deep mud and a downed pine tree. “Did you go over or under it?” I’d asked. “The mud or the tree?” he smiled. We laughed about the mosquitoes on our forearms—the ones we couldn’t swat away for fear of displacing the precarious balance of our bow-heavy canoes. I told him about tripping on a tree root (which turned out to be my right foot) and about surprising a ruffed grouse just before the stretch of mud (I thought the loud beating was my own heart until it flew up into a hemlock). I left him resting on a rock drinking water, the bow of his canoe perched securely in the crook of an ancient cedar. “Almost there!” I called behind me as I continued on my way. I’m not sure I believed it either.

There is a steep slope as the trail empties into the lake. One final hurdle before the end. I start my decent. My legs are starting to feel like jelly, my shoulders not approving of the weight adjustment. “Almost there,” I think. This time, believing it.

Finally, I’m at the water’s edge. My instinct is to throw the canoe off my shoulders and let it drop to the ground. I want to escape from it and be free. I want to collapse into the lake, letting the water wash over me. I want to float away with the lightness of my body and this thought.

Instead, I gather the last bit of strength I can summon. I walk into the shallow water, heave the canoe up and roll it to the left, turning my body and letting it land gently on my thighs. With a final sigh and release, I lower it smoothly into the calm water. I stand up straight and look around. The lake is pristine. A merganser with a long tail of chicks glides casually by—my presence not disturbing her. A white-throated sparrow sings its familiar song. A cool breeze rises from the lake, gently brushing the sweat from my forehead.

I’m here, and realize I’ve been here all along—absorbed in the mud, awakened by the grouse, accompanied by the ferns, made conscious by the falls, and supported by this group of young people. I no longer want to float away, I can’t think of anywhere I’d rather be.

“Almost there!” A familiar voice calls from behind me at the top of the slope. I smile and help him down with his canoe. “You are here,” I reply. He looks out at the lake. The merganser has circled back and the breeze rises gently again.

A Northern Lights Journal

Day 1: The first day was cloudy. We crossed the lakes pretty quickly because we had a tail wind. Since it was raining, we brought a stove for our trip. Tonight is rice and vegetable curry. Sweet! I think that some girls including me are feeling a little homesick, which I remember quite vividly. Now we are sitting around a circle or really in a circle and reading. When we got to the campsite we found this bench sort of thingy-majig made out of logs. We had a few laughs taking pictures of us all sitting on the log. Tomorrow it seems that it may be our first portage woot woot! There was some blue sky earlier but it looks like it’s all covered. Please let it be blue tomorrow!!!

-Morgana

Day 2: Today started out bright until about mid-morning when it clouded over. There were thunder booms all day. We paddled all past many camps. When we got to the portage we did a little dance and sang a little song. Then off we went woo hooo!!! Our first portage 795 meters and all. We carried our canoes and wannigans with confidence and strength. Though some may say or are saying that they can no longer portage anything, they will have to do it whether they like it or not because you may never like or love portaging but you will learn to accept them and look upon them as a break for the steady swing of the paddle.

-Morgana

Day 3: Today we were amazingly happy to leave our campsite because it had been a very buggy night. After only 20 minutes of canoeing we reached our first portage. It was one of our long ones and we devised a new plan that someone wouldn’t have to carry a wannigan one of our long trail. We made it through our first portage of the day then had a scrumptious lunch followed by brownies. We then canoed a short while over to our next portage which was a little more than half of our first one. After crossing over we found a very small cozy camping spot.

-Victoria

Day 4: OMG! Today was soo hard!! We had one of our longest portages. Also Emily left. She felt sick and left with Greer. So we had one less wannigan and one less canoe. Although we miss her…we know she’s better off at base camp getting better. The portage was 1400 yards long, and had an unexpected swamp somewhere in the middle. It was a nice relaxing point. But I think it was a little bit annoying. The teary faces and sweat streamed foreheads pushed through the long, rocky, hard portage. Tory (Victoria) didn’t even act like she was carrying anything! Her support and all the support of each other got us through. I love my trip members.

-Danie

1400 Meters

Through the sweat and blood we walked

This portage we did rock.

All together we did stick,

And that portages butt we kicked.

-Morgana

Day 5: Last night we had a huge rain storm. We ate really quickly and ran into our tent. Today we crossed five beaver dams. It was really funny because they were all in a row. Today we reached our destination. Eagle Lake!! Emily’s spirit was here with us. Everyone is das and excited to have reached our destination. Eagle Lake is beautiful with tall green pine trees and a blue rippling lake. Our campsite is on the top of a steep gravelly hill. We made our tent perfect. We ate lunch on a big rock near our campsite. But then the Kewaden boys came and stole that campsite. The portages we did today were very short, 70 meters and 360 meters (easy). The 70 was just up a hill and then down a hill. Hurray Ladies of Eagle Lake!!

-Genevieve

Day 6: Today we woke up later than usual because instead of having a rest day, like people sometimes do on trips, we set up camp early and had a rest afternoon yesterday and woke up late today. We played a game and had a nice breakfast in celebration of finally being at Eagle Lake, and took our time. Then we paddled out to a portage trail and did our longest portage yet and the longest one we will do this trip, which was 1660 yards long. That’s 4980 feet!! We stopped in the middle, where there was a small pond. There we had a snack of power bars and butterscotch candies. Then we did the last 800 yards.

It was hard, but nobody cried and nobody is sad to have completed it (that I know of). Then we had our bannock for lunch and had a nice afternoon, where many of us read or wrote in journals. We were camped on a nice campsite with a rocky landing. The rock was very, very, very big and it was nice to lie down on. And also, it was our first day with no rain at all, not even a drizzle. There was blue sky and perfect weather (finally). It’s soo relieving to know we have completed our longest portage!

-Dana

Day 7: Well this morning started off annoying because it was our first morning waking up to sunshine. After setting off in our canoes we shortly reached our first portage of only 50 meters then went on to a 200. After a power bar snack we left to start the 1400. We all felt that this was very hard because we didn’t break in the middle but went straight through. With the sun staying on our backs our wet clothing dried and our attitude was happiness. When we reached the other side it was very very choppy and there was a strong wind blowing over the lake. We stopped for a quick lunch of bannock and as soon as we set off again rain clouds appeared. Luckily it didn’t rain until just before =dinner which unfortunately meant wet dinner.

-Tori

Day 8: We`re back home to Temagami after our portage from Aston Lake. It was quite windy today. But we managed. The portage was only an 800 or so (actually 1100…sorry girls), and we all made it without taking our heavy loads off J. Then into the windy waters of Temagami. We attempted to eat our lunch, but got caught by rain. The weather had been so weird. We found a place sort of like the eye of the storm. Our delicious soggy bannock break was great. Hahaha. Well now we are in the boy’s base camp, Lanskib, after eating a delicious Mexican meal on “the Point“. The view was amazing! We watched the sun be eaten by the mountains, and the clouds change from gray to purple and link. It made for a wonderful picture. I`m also excited for the trip to end. I think we all are, but also quite sad to be parting these laughs, memories, friendships, and smelly armpits. J Good night yàll.

-Danie

Day 9: We did our last portage today. No wait…we`re done! We left from Lanskib in the morning full of energy and excitement for the day. After a short paddle across a bay we saw the campsite of one of the Excaliber boys. We stopped to talk to them and they fed us yellow cake mix from a pot. Mmmmmm… Victoria managed to finish it all. We kept on paddling. When we stopped for lunch we saw the other Excalibur group on their way to find the others. We kept on paddling. A strong head wind blew up against us but we kept strong. Dark thunderclouds rolled in from far away and covered the sky like a blanket. Large rain drops pelted down from the sky, soaking us. We saw a rainbow moving across the lake. After a short storm we kept on paddling. The wind was blowing the clouds away. We turned our backs. Moments later the clouds rolled in again to rain harder and louder. We padded the Canadian Adventure Camp (CAC) and kept paddling. Our arms were sore from the heavy hard day. We kept going. The camp had sent out over night trips so most of the camp sites were all taken up. Estair knew of a `secret campsite’ so we made our way there. We set up camp and ate dinner. Mac and cheese…more cheese than Mac. We crawled to the tent and had our last just us circle. We told each other one by one of what we thought each others gold was. Estair and Lhotse gave us chocolate chips which was, I think, a bit of a mistake. Danie was bouncing off the tent walls. We planned our entrance into camp which involved us portaging instead of paddling into camp.

-Morgana

Langskib Coulonge River – Day 9

We woke up and paddled a few clicks or so to eat breakfast. While eating we saw a muskrat and an osprey. We paddled through a shallow creek, did a little portage and a lift over. While paddling through the creek we say a big momma moose and it’s son or daughter (no one was sure). After the creek we applied some man juice—we paddled, did a portage and afterwards had some good old beans and bannock. We then paddled with a very relaxing tail wind and sailed about five kilometers. We did a portage, then another, then we carried over into the Coulonge River, yeah buddy! We paddled about a kilometer and arrived at camp. We are now reading Endurance. Most are anticipating the adventure the river will bring and some just want to go to sleep. Personally, I am feeling both. I hope all goes well on the river.

- Dylan, age 15

Northwaters Makobe River (all girls) – Day 15

We busted through 3 ‘tages today with no problems. By the way Carster and Liv made yummy muffins for breakfast. The sun shined all day today. We saw lots of other people, but we were the most hard core. Everyone got really cracked out (even without juice crystals). It was hilarious! The stars are out tonight and the moon is glowing golden. We had chocolate cake for dessert and then Ashley, Jen, Fern, and Izzy played the laughing game. Now we’re all lying in our sleeping bags and everyone has very itchy legs. Itchy….scratch….scratch. I’m so tired. Oh now Ashley is reading her funny quotes again. This feels like it has gone on forever, but not a bad forever. I mean it feels normal. I can’t believe we’ve been out here this long, but even more unbelievable, I think is the fact that we’ll be back at basecamp in a few days. I’m too tired and Ashley is too amusing!

- Choloe, age 15

Langskib Bay Trip – Day 12

Today we left the river. After many rapids and swifts we reached the point where we now sit; a small camp surrounded by the Harricana, swelled by high tide. As we paddled today with a glorious tail wind under a ferocious sun, the bay taunted us with scents of ocean. We saw a black bear cross a shallow part of the river in front of us. I know I’ll remember it’s loping stride for a long time. Just seeing its power and determination was amazing. We also spotted several eagles—very reminiscent of Native American paintings. The bay awaits. With tobacco we gave an offering of thanks to the river for our safe passage. I asked for a safe bay crossing. Something this powerful should not be provoked.

- Alex, age 17

Northwaters Coulonge River – Collective Thoughts

Within a canoe trip there is a lot of learning that runs deeper than the techniques and routines we set for ourselves. The deeper learnings are focused inwards and help us fuel our souls and understand ourselves better. The rewards of such learnings are great- if we have the courage to accept them into our lives. We learned the importance of being ourselves as well as being true to ourselves and to each other. We learned about the value of rigor and risk. We learned how to open our minds, to voice our weaknesses, and to allow others to help us. We learned that we don’t have to be perfect, but always to strive for excellence. We learned to appreciate the small things and beauties. We learned how to celebrate life through laughter and struggle and pain.

- Oriane, Tanguy, Annie, Remi, Andrew, Julia, Laurence, Graham, ages 15 to 17

Langskib Lost Lakes – Day 16

Today we woke up on Obabika Lake. We had a really good baked breakfast before hiking up to Conjuring Rock (Bob Lake). Up on the higher trail, we stopped and did a medicine wheel circle. I felt really really empowered, glad and many other things I have a hard time expressing—by the way, every single guy opened up and spoke from his heart to everyone; without hesitation what so ever. Later that day at lunch, Jake caught a small mouth bass. She was pregnant so we let her go. We did a portage today that was so flat and smooth you could almost run with a wannagan all day—it went from Obabika Lake to Obabika Inlet. The sunset tonight was spectacular. We had an amazing dinner tonight; extra-cheesy tuna glop, tomato and penne soup and date bars. I am now very full and very content.

- Stuart, age 14

Northwaters Dumoine River Trip, Collective thoughts

We began, paddling, portaging our way to the Dumoine River. To begin a journey within ourselves, with each other. Why are we here? What does it mean to begin…

Everyday when I wake up I begin again. Whatever happened yesterday doesn’t matter, each new day is a fresh stars. So I begin each day by waking up and just trying to make each day complete. – Alex G.

I am here because I want to forget some things but also I want to get a lot of stuff clear in my head. I’m here to stay away from my usual life and try something totally different. – Bernardo

I begin at my first discovery. I don’t know what it was, but then I started making sense for myself and the first time I found I fitted a piece of the puzzle, the start of me is at the heart of my mind. – Alex P-L

For me there is no beginning, nor end, I am a working progress to nothing but happiness, but that isn’t the beginning or the end for me. It’s the journey that I’m on. I’m here because I made a decision. – Carly

I’m here to truly challenge myself. – Sarah

I begin in my head. I begin in the thoughts about the places and people I haven’t seen. There is so much more to learn and know and experience,

I’m here to sort things out in my own head and outside it. – Tzega

I think I begin in my fingertips. They are the ones who touch everything; they bring all my emotions into my body, making my decisions and teaching me all they can. I’m here to learn from the world, its people, and its creations. – Liana

I begin in my soul, because that’s the meaning of my whole existence.

- Bernardo

I begin outside the firelight. I begin behind the stars. I begin alone. I begin in a womb of water waiting for the tide, for a full moon to pull me to the land where I am wanted and needed. I begin where someone ends. I begin because I have to. I begin as a friend. – Claire

I am here because I remember how good it feels when I leave and the connections I make – Alex G.

I begin in a loving and caring family where I am supported in everything I do. They are the rock, my hard place, and the one true constant that I can always depend on. I come from a place of compassion and love; and with this I can do anything. I begin my relationships with trust and honesty. I want to connect with people and I want to get to know them on a deeper level. It is so important for me to do this. – Colby

I’m here because I love this, I begin at the beginning. Start where my body tells me. – Mollie

Northwaters Sturgeon River Trip, Collective thoughts

We grew, muscle-by-muscle, paddle stroke upon paddle stroke. We were women, no longer afraid of the river or the land.

I used to lack confidence. – Judith

I used to be afraid. – Lily

I used to be uncomfortable. – Claire

I used to be uncomfortable with myself. – Isabel

I used to be timid and shy. – Mandy

I used to be mean to other people. – Natalie

I used to lie. – Emily

I used to believe in everything. – Sam

We made promises, to face the obstacles in our paths: friends and family, fears real and imagined; those things that keep us from being the best of who we are. We promised to let go of the past, to commit to the future. We promised to meet our goals, be ourselves. We promised, I promise…

To live everyday to the fullest. – Sam

To try my best. – Isabel

To give and give and give. – Claire

To have a fun time. – Natalie

To be true to my friends. – Judith

To keep going. – Mandy

To live forever as much as I can. – Lily

To be good to myself. – Emily

A Northern Lights Journal

Community Values:

In our community we want for each other to be nice and helpful; happy, excited and not always depressed; supportive and optimistic; fun, honest, authentic, inclusive. We want for there to be no cliques, no gossip, to be fair, to use careful language , to be enthusiastic and to treat others the way you would like to be treated.

Day one:

As eight strangers we came together for the first time today. It felt great finally learning of the people we would be spending the next ten days together and really beginning our journey. All our bags were packed and our gear was all ready to begin our trip. We were all pretty nervous, excited and a little unsure of what the future held for our group. We sat in the tepee for the first time and spoke of how we wanted our community to evolve and operate. I looked around at the seven faces around the circle and couldn’t wait to get to know each of them better. We finally hit the water for the first time and paddled away from the dock. It’s a crazy feeling to paddle away from the known into the wilderness, both excitement and apprehension filled my stomach with butterflies as we lost sight of base camp.

After a short paddle we hopped out of our canoes and collected firewood for the first time. We learned the types of wood that would burn well. Ewww poplar yummm cedar…..we camped for the first time on Long Island and got some of our new routines down. Foot washing, tent set up and tuna glop….We began reading the Golden Compass then had our first night sleeping on the hard ground of Temagami. We all slept so well.

Day two:

Our first morning on trail brought many new routines to be learned. The first was that we woke up to put on our wet clothes from the day before. As soon as we were up and dressed, we needed to pack up all our gear into our wet bags and take down our tent. We learned quickly that there isn’t time to sleep in the wilderness – we rely on the daylight so we had to get travelling early. We had our first breakfast on trail – oatmeal with lots of yumminess in it. After breakfast we washed the dishes and packed our wannigans into canoes and hit the water. We began working on our paddling muscles as we headed North from our campsite toward Sharp Rock Inlet. We got to a place called the Lower Narrows where cliffs rise out of the deep water of lake Temagami. We found a trail up to the top of a cliff and took turns trusting the word and example of our leaders and jumping off, into the air for a second and then into the cold water of the Narrows. Every girl on the trip jumped off and everyone was really supportive of each other taking the leap off that ten meter cliff. After we jumped and swam for a while, we continued paddling through and narrow and shallow section that opened up into Sharp Rock Inlet. In the distance we could see the tepee of the boys’ camp, Langskib. We headed for that island and made camp there. We spent that evening curled up with the rocks and roots of Wind Shift Island.

Day three:

The sun rose on day three of our journey, and we woke up to a cloudy windy day. We ate a yummy breakfast of couscous and raisins. After we had broken down camp we paddled to the front dock of Langskib and got blasted by huge waves and a headwind as we turned the corner. We were surprised to find people on Langskib as we were not expecting anyone to be there. We all felt so welcomed onto the island and received a wonderful tour from Howey. After the tour Lynn, the cook gave us apples and cookies to eat on the cliff of looking out over the beautiful lake. We needed to hop back in our canoes though and keep paddling on our voyage. Before long we had arrived at our first portage and were ready to face the challenge. We unloaded our canoes and brought our first heavy loads across the trial. It wasn’t too long of a portage but was a bit hard due to the rockiness. After the portage we arrived at Diamond Lake and paddled hard into the headwind. We all felt a bit tired out but managed to get into camp before sunset. We also went down a place called the shoots were Diamond Lake ends and Lady Evelyn Lake begins. It was like a little mini waterfall and it was super fun. We camped right after the shoots were we could still hear the rushing water as we fell asleep.

Day four:

We woke up at the bottom of Lady Evelyn Lake and paddled fifteen kilometres to the North most point in on day. The lake opened up and became a huge body of water for up to traverse, paddling hard, North, North, North. We entertained each other with funny stories and songs all the way up the lake. A light South wing was at our back, blowing up in the direction of our travels but also blowing in some wet and wild weather. All the way at the North end of the Lady Evelyn Lake, we found a beautiful campsite and made ourselves a big pot of veggie chilli and more cornbread than we could finish. After dinner was cleaned up, we sat together in a circle and each one of us shared a bit about our experience of being female, what about that makes us proud and what about it brings challenges. In the middle of our circle we had to move into the big tent because the rain hit us. After the circle, we stayed in the tent and read The Golden Compass and had hand massages from Lucy. After the leaders left the tent, the thunder storm hit and it poured until we were all asleep.

Day five:

We rose to the sun which was a bit higher in the sky then usual as we had a bit of a sleep in. We broke down camp and ate red river with apples and lots and lots and lots of brown sugar. We got on the lake and started to go back south down Lady Evelyn Lake. As we paddled South down Lady Ev., the huge expanse of sky above us was splashed and blotched with heavy grey-blue clouds, and wind continued to drive at us out of the South. We paddled by small rocky islands which were governed by colonies of terns who took terns sitting proud on the jagged rocks and flying around the island in low circles, squawking as if to keep us off their dung-splattered crags. It is a distinct privilege to be able to witness this broad Northern sky, and to surrender to un-habituated birds. We finally got most of the way down the lake and then camped near Blueberry Island and had a blast all swimming in the afternoon sun. That night after we had all gotten into our tents an enormous storm hit us. Huge thunder and lightning for most of the night…wooo hooo. It was quite CRAZY.

Day six:

We began day six in the sun, after a long night of rain. We continued to the bottom of Lady Evelyn to the “Diamond Shoots“. Julie and Lucy hauled our canoes up the rushing shoot before we reloaded and headed South on Diamond. With the North wind at our back and the sun demanding that we smear ourselves with sunscreen, we were able to eat lunch while floating on the lake, drifting in the direction we were headed. Holding our canoes together in a raft, we ate bannock, read from our book and soaked up some sun. We stopped on the Western Shore to examine ancient petraglyphs on some protected white cliffs. The meaning of the symbols is a bit of a mystery to us recreational paddlers, but if we guessed we might decipher images of canoes filled with paddlers and great mythical birds and perhaps bears. We continued down Diamond and then began heading West, as the wind shifted and served us with a mighty headwind. We found ourselves and campsite on Diamond and collected our firewood. We took some solo time to think about events, people and situations that had helped shape us into the people we were. We spotted some red canoes with feathers on their bows and ran to tell the leaders. We all grouped together and all at once yelled `Langskib` into the wind and watched as the silhouetted canoes turned back toward us, screaming `Northwaters!` We hung out with a boys group for a little while and heard some of their stories and they heard ours and then we ate dinner as they continued on, looking for a campsite. We stayed up late having our circle about the three important things in our lives. We also had a group discussion about the rest of our trip, where we would travel to and what would be our priorities.

Day seven:

As we rose on day seven we noticed that the wind shifted yet again and began blowing East, exactly the way we were planning to paddle. So, yet again, we were forced to paddle straight into a headwind. We made our way East on Diamond and ferociously paddled towards the Diamond portage. When we arrived at the portage we decided to do it with style and strength. We struggled a fair amount but completed the portage in good time. Nicole and Tamara carried the canoes the whole way and did very well. All the wannigan carriers did an amazing job as well. As we loaded our canoes back into the familiar waters of Temagami the wind picked up very strong from the South. We paddled hard into the headwind for a couple of hours making little headway because the wind was so fierce. We finally found a campsite and made camp. Lucy made quesadillas and they were delish! We tucked into our tents to read and a huge storm blew in over us lulling us to sleep.

Day eight:

The wind was still ripping out of the South when we woke on day eight. This wind would be a cross wind for us as we headed East to travel through the Upper Narrows. The white-capped waves threatened to spill in over our starboard gunwales as we made our way. Once through the Narrows, we headed South, the lake widening as we traveled, and sky thick with low grey clouds. We paddled in a lessening head wind and heavy rain for long stretches, paddling hard to keep ourselves warm. We stopped to collect fire wood in a cedar grove when we spotted four red canoes heading South as well. As they approached, we saw that they were the Northern Lights KoKoKo section! They stopped on the shore where we were tied up and we had a chance to share stories and catch up. We started paddling as the rain began again, continuing South in thick fog. The wind began to shift and blow at us from the West, and as we neared the Northern Point of Granny Bay we felt the wind shift to a tail wind, shoving us into our campsite before lunch. The North wind is often a cleansing wind and it cleared the low clouds out of the sky. The sun came out and we had the afternoon to play at the campsite and make large girl piles in the tent. After dinner we were watching a beautiful sunset as a boys section in a voyager canoe paddled up to our campsite and we gave them our dinner leftovers and sent them on their way. After dinner we had a circle where we each had a chance to share something we had learned on the trip; a lesson we would take back home. A few girls talked about learning to be more appreciative of the things they take for granted in their lives at home.

Day nine:

It was difficult to believe when we woke up today that it was already day nine. The trip just flew by and it feels as though we just left the dock on day one. We began our paddle in the rain and it didn’t let up for a couple of hours. Coincidentally, the rain let up as we approached our last portage. We were all very up for the challenge and were eager to prove ourselves. We began and ended with style; many of us only putting our wannigans down once during the trail. Right in the middle of the portage there was a massive mud hole that was quite a challenge for us all but; together we got through it. We finished the portage and felt very accomplished. We paddled into camp and set up camp and moments later both tents were crushed by the wind. Lucy and Julies tent was broken and we had to reset up the six person. Julie and Lucy ended up having a slumber party in the six person and it was really nice all be together. We ate really cheesey mac and cheese and had cookie dough out of a big pot. Yum yum. It was pretty hard to fall asleep in that can of sardines but when we finally did it was a great sleep.

Day ten:

The wind was blowing out of the North for our final paddle into Base Camp. Once all our canoes were in the water and loaded, we circles for our last time on trail. We wanted to take the time to tell each other about the beauty we had also seen in them, so that if this community never was the same again, we would have no regrets about having not said the things we meant to say. We took turns sitting in the middle of the circle receiving the positive feedback that the rest of the group had to offer. Once on the water, we paddled hard to get in site of Base Camp. We paddled in in a line, to the cheering of the people on our home dock. Everyone bow hopped in style and the celebration of our journey began.

By: Petra Eperjesi, NWL Alumni & Staff

In the summer of 2002, along with 13 other young men and women from all over North and Central America, I paddled 550 kilometers from Amos, Quebec, down the mighty Harricana River and across the James Bay.

Together, we paddled through storms of bitter north winds howling in from the Arctic Ocean, and through days of cold and rain. I paddled through squalls of self-doubt and fear alone. At home I had been feeling unsure of who I was and where I was going. I felt like I was shackled to a thousand different pulley systems, all wrenching me in different directions. I had no idea what I wanted, where I wanted to go.

As we loaded our canoes the last morning on the river the drizzle became a downpour, and we headed, for the last time, to the Bay. The tide pulled me out into the Arctic Ocean and off the edge of the world. A weight was lifted. There, out on the ocean in my little canoe, I was free. I could see nothing but water and sky, I had nothing to landmark and no sense of direction but for the first time, I knew where I was going.

Looking back and remembering the cold and the rain are a distant—and therefore fond—memory. Some of the worry and doubt have been lifted, like a heavy load at the end of a rough portage. I’m not sure exactly what happened out there, but I do know that I am sure I belonged on that Bay Trip and I am sure of my steps as I walk through my life at school and at home, as a leader and as a part of my community—following my heart.